July 18, 1926: Pauline and her « Ford » dress, by Chanel!

It’s quite a visual shock, even for a guy who claims to have seen it all. Sitting on the terrace of the Café de la Paix, I watched the silhouettes drift by before realizing that the one walking so purposefully toward my table was none other than my daughter. Pauline. A moving little black rectangle beneath a cloche hat pulled right down to her eyes. No more long hair—a short bob, and a black dress that stops dead below the knee. She sat down opposite me with a wide, radiant smile.

“So, Papa? Have you seen my Ford?” she threw out by way of greeting.

I couldn’t help but smile.

“Your Ford? I knew American industry worked miracles, but I didn’t think you could wear it on your back. It’s Chanel, isn’t it? I recognize the style, but I’m worried about my wallet…”

“Don’t worry, Papa!” she laughed, patting my hand. “It is indeed the model Vogue dubbed that way. Except I made it myself. Thirty francs’ worth of fabric, a pattern cut out of a magazine, three evenings of sewing, and voilà. That’s Paris in 1926 for you: we no longer wait on the salons of Rue Cambon to be elegant. Typists and duchesses look exactly the same on the street.”

I looked at her with a touch of admiration. I knew the women of the Belle Époque—tightly corseted, prisoners of their own frills and flounces. My daughter, however, can breathe. The S-curve silhouette has completely vanished, replaced by a fluid line—a true garçonne look.

“I must admit it’s much more practical for chasing after the tramway,” I said with a smile. “But aren’t you a bit cold without all that armor?”

“On the contrary, Papa, we’re alive again!” she replied, adjusting her dress where it sat on her hips. “We threw it all out the window. A bandeau bra, a girdle, and that’s it. We want to be able to move, play sports, dance the Charleston without suffocating. And look at my arms, I’ve caught the sun!”

“That, I can see. Your saintly grandmother would have screamed scandal at the sight of that tan—she who never went out without her parasol.”

“Your saintly mother didn’t see Josephine Baker at the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées. Today, porcelain skin is over. We want life!”

She pulled a mirror from her bag to touch up her lipstick, brazenly, right in front of the passersby. Total freedom, without a shred of false bourgeois modesty. Watching her, my mind drifted back to last year’s Art Deco Exhibition.

“You remind me of poor Paul Poiret,” I told her in a gentler tone. “I ran into him last week. His three pharaonic barges—Amours, Délices, and Orgues—have completely ruined him. He still clings to his oriental drapes, his splendors of another era… It’s sad, but the emperor has no clothes.”

Pauline cast an almost tender look for the old couturier.

“He was a genius, but he stayed on the other side of the war. Today’s women want structure, speed. Look at what Sonia Delaunay is doing with her Boutique Simultanée: cubism in motion, diamonds, geometric lines. It’s wearable art, not theater costumes.”

She gulped down the rest of her coffee, flashed me a conspiratorial look, and stood up, already hurried along by her era.

“Right, I must fly, Papa. See you tonight at the dance hall? I’ll show you how we dance in 1926.”

“Agreed! I rather enjoy letting myself be led from time to time!” I called out with a laugh.

Watching her walk away with a light step into the boulevard crowd, I felt an immense warmth. This fashion isn’t a mere youthful whim. It is their manifesto. These women don’t just walk; they charge ahead, free and masters of their own bodies. And honestly, watching the world change at this pace through my daughter’s eyes is the finest show in Paris.


Pauline, Olivier le Tigre’s daughter, wears her Chanel « Ford » dress, which she sewed herself.

The Chanel Ford Dress

1920s Fashion in Paris: Revolution, Garçonnes, and Haute Couture

15 juin 1926 : Gaudí, le bâtisseur et les agités du siècle

Les dépêches de Barcelone décrivent une foule immense, des dizaines de milliers de personnes venues escorter le cercueil jusqu’à la crypte de la Sagrada Família. Les obsèques viennent de se finir. Les officiels ont rentré leurs grands chapeaux, les draps noirs ont été repliés, et le silence est revenu sur le chantier. Il a fallu cette pompe tardive pour que la Catalogne réalise ce qu’elle avait perdu.

Car quatre jours plus tôt, l’homme qui agonisait sur un lit de charité à l’hôpital de la Santa Creu — l’hospice des indigents — n’était pour tout le monde qu’un mendiant anonyme.

Le 7 juin, quand le tramway de la ligne 30 l’a percuté sur la Gran Via, Antoni Gaudí portait des vêtements si usés, si grossièrement retenus par des épingles, que les chauffeurs de taxi ont refusé de charger ce corps ensanglanté. On ne charge pas la misère, elle salit les banquettes. C’est un garde civil qui a fini par le faire traîner là où l’on meurt sans bruit. Il a fallu que le chapelain du temple vienne errer dans les salles communes le lendemain pour mettre un nom sur ce visage brisé.

Il y a dans cette fin une ironie brute qui ressemble terriblement à notre époque.

Paris comme Barcelone s’étourdissent au rythme du charleston, de l’argent facile et des réputations instantanées. Dans les couloirs de la Chambre et les ministères où se passent mes journées de conseiller, on s’agite pour exister, on soigne l’apparence, on flatte pour décrocher un ruban ou un strapontin de sous-secrétaire d’État. Et pendant ce temps, à 73 ans, le plus grand architecte de la péninsule vivait comme un ermite au cœur de son chantier, ne se nourrissant que de pain et de lait, entièrement dévoré par une idée qui le dépassait.

Je regarde les croquis de la seule tour achevée — celle de Saint-Barnabé, terminée il y a quelques mois à peine. Une unique sentinelle de pierre veillant sur un immense squelette de colonnes. Les esprits forts s’impatientaient de voir ce temple éternellement en chantier. Gaudí leur opposait le flegme des bâtisseurs de cathédrales : « Mon client n’est pas pressé. » Son client, c’était Dieu.

Ayant vu le monde et le siècle exploser dans la boue des tranchées, j’ai développé une sainte horreur des agités du court terme, de ces politiciens qui croient décréter l’avenir à la semaine. Le mysticisme catholique de Gaudí m’est totalement étranger, mais sa discipline m’impose le respect. Passer ses dernières années à modeler des maquettes en plâtre pour des successeurs qu’il ne verra jamais, confier l’avenir à son bras droit Domènec Sugrañes avec la certitude tranquille du semeur, cela demande une force que le cynisme moderne ne comprend pas.

La foule est maintenant partie, les bougies s’éteignent et la ville retourne à son bruit. Gaudí repose désormais sous ses voûtes inachevées. Il est mort dépouillé de tout ce qui brille, laissant notre siècle superficiel face à sa propre vacuité. Les gouvernements passeront, les majorités s’effondreront, mais sa pierre restera.

Gaudí lors d’une procession en 1924
La Sagrada Familia en 1926

June 15, 1926: Gaudí, the Builder, and the Restless Spirits of the Age


Dispatches from Barcelona describe an immense crowd—tens of thousands of people gathered to escort the coffin to the crypt of the Sagrada Família. The funeral has just concluded. The officials have put away their top hats, the black drapes have been folded, and silence has returned to the construction site. It took this belated pomp for Catalonia to truly realize what it had lost.
For just four days earlier, the man dying on a charity bed at the Hospital de la Santa Creu—the hospice for the destitute—was, to everyone, nothing more than an anonymous beggar.
On June 7, when a line 30 tram struck him on the Gran Via, Antoni Gaudí was wearing clothes so worn, so crudely held together with pins, that taxi drivers refused to take his bloodied body. They do not carry misery; it stains the seats. It was a Civil Guard who finally had him taken to where people die without a sound. It took the temple’s chaplain wandering through the common wards the following day to put a name to that shattered face.
There is a raw irony in this end that bears a striking resemblance to our times.
Paris, like Barcelona, loses itself in the rhythm of the Charleston, easy money, and instant reputations. In the corridors of the Chamber and the ministries where my days as an advisor are spent, people scramble to exist, curate appearances, and flatter to secure a ribbon or a minor seat as an under-secretary of state. Meanwhile, at seventy-three, the peninsula’s greatest architect lived like a hermit in the heart of his construction site, nourishing himself only on bread and milk, entirely consumed by an idea far greater than himself.
I look at the sketches of the only completed tower—that of Saint Barnabas, finished just a few months ago. A lone stone sentinel watching over an immense skeleton of columns. The wits grew impatient watching this temple eternally under construction. Gaudí countered them with the phlegm of cathedral builders:

« My client is not in a hurry. »

His client was God.
Having seen the world and the century shatter in the mud of the trenches, I have developed a sacred horror of those frantically chasing the short term—of those politicians who believe they can decree the future on a weekly basis. Gaudí’s Catholic mysticism is entirely foreign to me, but his discipline commands my respect. Spending his final years shaping plaster models for successors he will never see, entrusting the future to his right-hand man Domènec Sugrañes with the quiet certainty of a sower—this requires a strength that modern cynicism cannot comprehend.
The crowd has now departed, the candles are burning out, and the city returns to its noise. Gaudí now rests beneath his unfinished vaults. He died stripped of everything that glitters, leaving our superficial century to face its own emptiness. Governments will pass, majorities will collapse, but his stone will endure.

Propulsé par WordPress.com.

Retour en haut ↑